Energy prices change throughout time, but the general trend is upward, therefore homeowners are increasingly seeking for new and innovative methods to insulate their homes and reduce heating and cooling expenses. The garage—specifically, the garage door—is an often investigated location. A garage that is linked to the house and has one or more common walls with the house may undoubtedly be a source of energy loss, thus assessing the garage makes perfect sense.
For good reason, the garage door on an attached garage is often seen as a weak link in a home’s thermal envelope. In most houses, the garage door opens multiple times each day, exposing a large portion of a wall to the elements. Because a garage door operates in this manner, it is difficult to fully seal and insulate the garage. Unless the garage door is infrequently used, any attempt to fully insulate the garage usually costs more in materials than it saves in energy.
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Even yet, many individuals believe that adding insulation R-value to the garage door is justified and required. And in certain cases, this may be true.
Insulation Techniques for Garage Doors
Garage doors open and shut on a regular basis, often hinged or folding at many places. As the door continues to work, certain insulating solutions may not be long-lasting. It is possible that the insulation may flake or pull away. Consider the following typical garage door insulation options if you wish to test an insulating approach, possibly as a short seasonal fix:
Foam board insulation consists of thin, stiff panels with a high insulating value.
Spray foam insulation: sprayed onto your garage door, although not the most efficient approach; the same kind of insulation is frequently sprayed from the inside onto roof sheathing to boost the R-value in an attic.
Cellulose insulation must be sprayed onto the garage door; it performs much better than spray foam, but it is the most costly alternative.
Reflective insulation: thin, stiff boards covered with reflective foil to deflect heat; ideal for hot areas.
Fiberglass insulation batts are the least priced insulation and should be used on the inner face of the door.
Garage Doors That Are Insulated
If you want an energy-efficient garage door, a better option is to get a garage door that is already insulated. Rather having a metal door, which readily transfers heat and cold, go for a fibreglass door with a foam core, which will assist reduce energy loss from the garage. If you’re thinking about replacing your garage door, an insulated one is generally an excellent choice. However, replacing an otherwise fine garage door with an insulated type just for the prospective energy savings is unlikely to make financial sense.
Insulate the remainder of the garage. Instead
Given the other portions of the garage that are similarly problematic in terms of energy loss, garage door insulation is of little utility. Your garage’s floor is most likely constructed on a slab, which means it isn’t insulated and is a constant source of energy transmission. Concrete walls in your garage are also frequent sources of transmission. If you invest the time and money to insulate the whole garage, you may be disappointed to find just a little reduction in your energy expenditures.
Rather than trying to insulate the garage door and other garage components, a far more efficient alternative is to concentrate your efforts on the boundary walls between the main home and the connected garage. As a result, even if the temperature within the garage changes, it will not have a substantial impact on the temperature inside your house or boost your energy expenses. Here are the most effective methods:
Install insulation in the garage ceiling to assist prevent energy loss to the area above, which might link to the home attic or a room above the garage.
Add a lot of insulation to the inside wall of the garage that shares a wall with the home.
Before insulating, cover any holes and crevices to the exterior with a can of low-expanding spray foam around the garage, particularly around any windows.
The One and Only
While most contractors would advise you to insulate the transfer points from the garage to the home, there are situations when you may wish to insulate the garage door, as well as the walls and floor. If you use your garage as a living space rather than a storage room for automobiles and other belongings, you may already be heating or cooling the space, and the garage door may not be used very often. In this case, it makes sense to optimise the R-value of the walls, floors, ceiling, and garage door.
This is true for both connected garages and detached garages that are distinct from the home. If you’re adding additional heat or air conditioning to a detached garage, you’ll want to make sure that every part of the garage is as energy-efficient as possible. It has been shown that an energy-efficient R-18 garage door can keep the garage area around 12 degrees warmer in the winter and approximately 25 degrees cooler in the summer. However, keep in mind that an energy-efficient double garage door costs between $1,500 and $2,000, so it will take a long time to recoup the cost of the door in terms of energy savings. And it only makes sense for locations where the garage door will not be opened on a regular basis in order to disrupt the energy envelope.